CAVIAR RESTO, SOUTHERN LIVING, FEB. 2014

PUBLICATION: SOUTHERN LIVING MAGAZINE

PUBLISHING DATE: FEBRUARY 2014

(Original Submission)

Caviar Restaurant & Champagne Bar: A Gold Needle In a Haystack

“Fine dining has to be personal. It’s about celebrations, so we have to keep the standards high all the time,” says Bastiaan van der Walle, General Manager of Caviar Restaurant & Champagne Bar. A fine dining French restaurant located in Westgate Center Alabang, maintaining optimal standards are obviously easier said than done.

Many high-end food establishments in the south have fallen prey to the propositions of a bigger albeit falsely lucrative market, most ending up with a lifespan of a mayfly. But brothers and owners Bastiaan and Frank van der Walle, internationally well-versed in culinary arts and hospitality management, along with Bastiaan’s wife Katrina, may have nailed the recipe for success: differentiation, hands-on management, and a sophisticatedly straightforward, fresh, and worth-your-every-centavo menu. These have done them good so far, gradually earning them a reputation as one of the must-visit fine dining destinations in the south.

Caviar Restaurant & Champagne Bar offers, you’ve guessed it, a selection of farmed and wild high-quality sturgeon caviar and an assortment of world-class wines (and liquors), with an excellent French menu to boot. The menu is limited for a reason, as Frank, who mans the kitchen, places emphasis on dishes that are freshly prepared and cooked as ordered. Mainstays to try are the Beluga Caviar (Php28,000), Selle de Chevreuil (Php1,550), and the Meringue et Mousse (Php490).

The Beluga Caviar defines what caviar really should be – smooth, almost creamy mouthfeel with soft oceanic notes that demand to be savored. The Selle de Chevreuil is well thought out as every ingredient marries well into one bite. Nothing is too overpowering yet each flavor is distinct, from the medium-rare venison’s slightly gamey appeal, the creamy polenta, to the sweet prune jus. The Meringue et Mousse’s three quenelle mousse flavors nestled in a web of caramel is served in a martini glass and is good for sharing. The strawberry mousse is delicate, which unifies well with the rich and creamy white chocolate and semi-sweet chocolate mousse. Pair the dishes with Caviar’s generous wine selection carefully chosen by Bastiaan, the General Manager and Sommelier. These are not your typical wine brands, with bottles ranging from Php250,000 to Php3,500. Enjoy your dining experience at the lofty yet inviting space designed with Filipino-made furnishings that provides various options to guests. Opt to take exclusive whiskies by the lounge area, enjoy a degustation menu at the private Beluga Room, or have wine tasting at the formal dining area and the private al fresco garden.

2014 may well be Caviar Restaurant & Champagne Bar’s year, palpable with the van der Walles’ passion to deliver. Good thing they saw an opportunity to build in Westgate when others found it a risk. Despite the obvious fact that competition is close to nil, parking is sufficient and privacy is secured. These may have already paid off in spades, but Caviar’s commitment to distinction is incessant – apparent in its ambiance, service, and menu.

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SIDEBAR: The Real Dish on Caviar

Isn’t caviar simply fish roe?

Not everything is as it seems, even with caviar. Although it has been a common practice to name certain fish roe as caviar, traditional authentic caviar should only come from wild sturgeons (Beluga, Oscietra, and Sevruga) of the Caspian and Black seas. In Caviar Restaurant & Champagne Bar, the farmed Sevruga Caviar goes for Php15,500, while the wild Sevruga, Beluga, and Oscietra Caviars range from Php16,000 to Php28,000. The extremely rare White Caviar from an albino sturgeon can be ordered upon request, which is priced at the hundred thousands.

How do you eat caviar?

The delicate caviar should be served chilled and never with steel, plastic, or wood utensils as it can easily acquire the taste of these. Serve caviar with ceramic ware only.

What goes well with caviar?

Have small bites with blini, boiled egg whites, minced shallots, and horseradish to enhance the caviar’s flavor. It can spruce up light dishes such as Steamed Halibut with Consomme or Lobster Salad with Argan Oil. It must be served separately at all times, though. It also goes exceptionally well with Champagne or Vodka.